Latest Posts

  1. Papua New Guinea

    Papua New Guinea

    Papua New Guinea is often lumped in with Indonesian coffees. But it is distinct in nearly every way.

    Read More
  2. Flores

    Flores

    Flores is small by island standards, just about 360 kilometers end to end. It is in the Indonesian archipelago, between Sumbawa and Timor islands.

    Read More
  3. Costa Rica

    Costa Rica

    If there is a problem with Costa Rica coffee, it's the fact that it can lack distinction; it is straightforward, clean, softly acidic, mild.

    Read More
  4. Dominican Republic

    Dominican Republic

    Good news, Sammy Sosa ...the Dominican produces more than mild cigars. It has a tradition of coffee production that dates back several centuries now.

    Read More
  5. Mexico

    Mexico

    Mexican coffee originates from South-central to Southern regions of the country.

    Read More
  6. Uganda

    Uganda

    he variety of wild Robusta coffee still growing today in Uganda's rain forests are thought to be some of the rarest examples of naturally occurring coffee trees anywhere in the world.

    Read More
  7. Nicaragua

    Nicaragua

    Nicaraguan coffees have a wide range of flavor attributes. Some cup like Mexican coffees from Oaxaca, others have a more pronounced acidity.

    Read More
  8. El Salvador

    El Salvador

    El Salvador coffee had a poor reputation for years, marred mostly by the inability to deliver coffee of high quality within an unstable social climate.

    Read More
  9. Panama

    Panama

    Coffee from Panama was once overlooked and under-rated, but not any longer.

    Read More
  10. Ethiopia

    Ethiopia

    Ethiopia is the birthplace of coffee: it is in the forests of the Kaffa region that Coffea Arabica grew wild.

    Read More
  11. Decaf

    Decaf

    Green coffee is decaffeinated before roasting. This process changes the color of the green coffee: it varies from light brown (Natural and CO-2) to green-brown (MC and Swiss Water Process -SWP- decafs).

    Read More
  12. Australia

    Australia

    Okay, it is a continent and an island. But how do you classify Australian coffee?

    Read More

Panama

Panama

Coffee from Panama was once overlooked and under-rated, but not any longer. That perception was changed, in part by the Best of Panama competition which attracting global competition for the best lots and garnering spectacular prices. The Gesha cultivar from some small estate, with its floral top notes, has also lavished heaps of attention in general on Panama coffee production.

 

Panama coffees from higher altitudes are brightly toned, with clean fruited notes and sometimes floral aromatics. Lesser Panama coffees are quite different, and had been a staple of higher-end commercial roasters and lower-end specialty roasters. Ineed there are still many lower-grown Panamas but in all parts of the country, an influx of land investment has lessened the acreage planted in coffee.

 

Generally the better coffees come from the Boquete and Volcan coffees from the Chirqui district, ones from small family-owned farms that produce the unique coffees. They employ N'gobe Indians for the picking season, who will come to the coffee farms to work under some of the better wage standards and labor laws in Central America, I'm told.

 

Panama has changed greatly in recent years, particularly the coffee producing areas. As investment money came in and the expat/retiree population boomed, it affected the coffee sector in several ways. Farms were sold to foreign investors from Colombia, Venezuela and North America. Land values skyrocketed as retirees from the US sought the lower cost of living, warmer climate and the beauty of the Chirqui area. Conveniences abounded: big box stores nearby in the town of David, the prospect of having a fancy home with a maid and a gardener, and fixed incomes covering medical care to a greater extent, with top doctors in Panama City.

 

It is no longer the place I visited over a decade ago, and the pressure on labor and land values have made coffee farming even more difficult. And somehow producing good, clean, wet-processed coffee was not enough. Farmers chasing the "Gesha rainbow" have tried all kinds of varietals and processes to attract more attention to their coffee, and they look for prices of 5-20 times that of a solid wet-processed coffee.

 

In this spasm of competition and diverging ideas of what a "good" coffee is, I think there has been some tarnishing of the Panama star. But great coffee continues to be produced there by some of the most knowledgeable farmers in Central America. Many have the advantage of strong US contacts, family in the States, US university education and flawless English. One wishes they could share their knowledge with other coffee farmers in Central America who lack these advantages.

 

 

For some rather dated background material on Panama coffees, go can way back to the 2002 Panama Cupping Competition; also see my slide show of the 2003 cupping. We have a page about the #1 2004 coffee, Jaramillo Especial, and a page about the 2004 Cupping. And the January 2006 crop visit to check our small lot coffee and visit the Gesha trees at Hacienda La Esmeralda. Also see my April 2006 Best of Panama competition trip.

 

Panama offerings page

 

Back to coffee origins page

Comments